Hi all

Long time I have been on the site

I have this yak face, and have conformation from Gus Lopez that it is a real yak face and not a bootleg og repro.

My question is, if it is unpainted or paint stripped? I asked the seller and told me, thats it is original, if it was stripped, it would have paint between the limps.

The figure has lack of detail on the torso, the arms and legs seem softer than those I have had before but fully detailed. Head is fully detailed.



More pics here:  https://s613.photobucket.com/user/DarthKaze/library/Yak%20Face?sort=3&page=1

Kind regards
Claus

Aussiejames replied to my factory error question. Advised that a black/uv light can show if there are any remnants of paint or paint removal solvent left over on a "factory error unpainted." I ordered a $5 uv/ blacklight on Ebay. When I get it gonna give it a try on my factory errors.

Hi Claus- it has been a while. Wishing you a great 2017

What did Gus have to say about the "lack of detail on the torso, the arms and legs seem softer "?

Thank you James, hope your having a good start on 2017

Gus asked me if I knew about the lack of detail on the torso is the cause of a strip, and encouraged me to contact the seller.

Must be said that the torso is of a very hard material. And the limbs have gone soft of a possible pain strip.

All the details on the arms, legs and head are really nice and clear.

The seller wrote that he had yak face for years, and it was sold to me along with a lot neo sw test shots that I also have pictures on photobucket. They are from 2002-08.

He said he could not prove that the yak was original but did not doubt himself.

Asked a buddy and been told that in the early stages of development, could used the original colors, but not necessarily plastic quality  and that they not necessarily cast them with the same details.

I have no experience with it on the torso is a hardcopy body.

its cool looking no matter how he turns out but I hope hes not paint stripped

Looks like a great item. I'd love to add it to my collection if it comes up for sale.

I have taken Bababooeyfett advice and purchase a UV light that comes in the mail one of these days.

I do not know what to look for, but suppose that I can compare with the other last 17 I have. I dont have an extra yak. The reason that there can be differences in the plastic, and the reaction to the light.

Claus? WOW!

Good to see man! Hope all is well.

Have there been other examples of paint errors on Yak Face?

Since the torso leaks detail and the limbs are softer I am leaning towards this being a custom from someone at some point.



I took this screenshot from a rs thread which shows a yak very close to this one and another, both made by some customizer.

Hi John, long time no see , all good here TIG looks great man !

trappedtexan: I have allready seen the photos and written who I have looked at it to confirm that its not a custom or repro.

The figure is vintage, the thing is that I know a lot more when it comes under a UV ligt

I just looked at the other pics, is the white residue that is on the figure something that disappears when you wash it but comes back again when it is dry?

I have seen similar residue on the chrome stripped c3po figures when they sit in brake fluid or other solvent to long. That would make me think it has been stripped but the odd thing is the torso detail being not as defined. Frankly the way these were made it wouldn't be possible for that to occur unless this was the sculpt used to make a mold. Once the figure was sculpted a mold was made, a hardcopy would be made from that mold in dynacast, this would then be used to make a steel mold. To lose torso detail would suggest that the mold used to make this was made from an existing torso and not from the steel mold that figures are made from. It is possible that what we perceive as lacking detail is actually there but harder to see due to the overall cream color but you have this in hand so should see it up close. The only way to determine if it came from a custom mold of a yak figure is a side by side comparison. When one makes a mold and then cast a part in that mold there is shrinkage, so this should be smaller than a vintage yak if it is a custom piece.

Hi, thanks for your detailed reply

The reason I'm stubborn with the figure:

If it is a fake, its really high end made.
- Details of a arms, legs and head are error-free.
- Torso is a completely different material
- There are no good pictures of the comstums with the two images I've seen.
- Those who are pictured as Mexicans bootlegs, looks very poor and cheap plastic.

You are right, I took Pictures before washing it, and its a clean figure other than the lines on the sides from welding.

Hi Again

Remembering cleaning a death star droid, I put it in a glas of dishwater, and 3 days later the hole damn chromepaint fell of.

To remove acryllic paint it has to be a heavy Chemical to remove the paint so clear. When I compare the figures under a UV light and it has Chemical trace of soaking it should still be obsorbed in the plastic, and maybe light up as a light bulp

Sorry for spamming my threat. Came to think of smell, if it had been through a Chemical process, wouldnt ithave a syntistic smell?

There is a guy making repros that seem to be higher quality

Thanks for the Picture John, thats sucks for the community..

My second thought of seeing this Photo and zoomining in on it, was if it is made intirerly of plastic, due to the torso, and some of the small detailes would be clean cut.

Hven I have compared mine hvis other I have noticed a small knick in the neck. The reason that i circled the torso is that it looks old and dirty. The seller wrote that he had the figure for years and was before 3d printing as an argument for it to be a real vintage figure.

The printet versions I have seen, dont have a moving head and is a one printet figure. I have seen that others cut of the arms and legs after and made caveties for magnets to hold on and move the limbs.

I would pressume these repros were very clean and clean cut.

What is you all takes on this ?

I got my uv/black light today. I tested by putting nail polish on a white bottle cap, let dry, then used nail polish remover. Under the uv light I could not see any residue from the polish or the remover. I thought and had every expectation that I would have. I checked my two figures(unpainted factory errors) with the uv light and could not see any residue. I did not see any paint residue in the crevices either. I am speculating that if someone does a 100% perfect job on paint removal the uv light may not detect it. The uv light may expose some paint left in the crevices if someone does not do 100%. Again , I did not see any residue or paint in the crevices in my figures. My figures, where there is the unpainted error, does still have some purposeful paint from the factory that is right next to the unpainted area. I concluded with my figures that there is a higher possibility that mine may be legit due to the degree of difficulty to do 100% removal next to a purposefully factory painted area. I believe to achieve 100% without detection the whole figure or whole part would have to be stripped. However, I would concede that mine could have been completely stripped with some parts being repainted by the seller. When using the uv light on my figures in question, and other figures, and also along with other household items, it appears that the uv light is most effective detecting organic matter. I don't know it's efficacy in detecting chemical based paint or stripper. Final conclusion, is that it was unfortunately inconclusive for me. Keep in mind my uv light was $5. I don't know if a more expensive one would give a more conclusive determination.

Good points, and congratulations on your figures

Really looking forward to see it under an UV light. If this figure I have is made as to con people I hope that I can document it well for others to learn from

Well, I'm not positive, but leaning toward legit on mine. One other factor that I did not mention is the sheen. Both of my figures have the unpainted factory error on the head. Both figures have flesh moulded heads. Both have a glossy sheen to the flesh mould. Where the paint is deleted the sheen is still glossy. I am assuming if that area were stripped, it would damage the glossy sheen. Again, I'm assuming, but I think it is a logical conclusion. So on yours compare it to another Yak Face. Check the sheen. If the Yak Face in question has a matte sheen compared to another one, than maybe it was stripped. As to your photo. My Yak Face has a notch in the neck as well. As for the larger circle, maybe take a q-tip soak in water and wipe. If you get residue on the q-tip, then maybe it's just dirt and not any remaining paint. That would be a good sign. Best of luck.

Finally got my UV-light today and shot some Pictures.

Head, arms and legs look clean, the torso is a bit dirty and gets a pink glow.





More pics here: https://s613.photobucket.com/user/DarthKaze/library/Yak%20Face?sort=3&page=1

UV light will sometimes show the areas that were once painted look different to the areas that were never painted. That looks OK but the 'light test' is not 100%

Yea, glad I got a light, and as you say its not 100% true. It does make me think if it is possible to get it graded or certified, but I have no experience in this area - any advice ?

His torso is still a mystery for me, why doesnt it have clear details.

If it is in fact an unpainted yak face, it was not a production figure that came on a Card, it would make no sence in packeging it, that is why I think this figure has more story behind it